Friday, January 23, 2009

Worth the Wait...


I've been surfing the cordless log all week, and having a blast.  It's much more lively than the 10 footer I've been surfing for the last couple years.























I was so excited to surf it the first day, that I picked up Levi and bolted to the beach... forgetting to get my wetsuit.  The sun was just setting, so it was a do-or-die decision.  Needless to say I paddled out at Blackies in trunks on Monday evening.

The water wasn't as cold as I had anticipated.  I surfed for 30 or 40 minutes until it was too dark.  I was so excited about the new log, that I don't even think I touched the water.  I was skipping across the surface while I paddled out.  Big thanks to Ronnie for letting me steal his wave to get my first solid noseride on it. 

1 comment:

LightGnar said...

i wanna ride it dave (thats what she said)